The first considerations before buying a horse
Horses
and ponies are living, breathing creatures. If you are considering a
purchase, I think you should be aware of the obligations and
responsibilities before making a decision.
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| The first considerations before buying a horse |
Horses and ponies are living, breathing creatures. If you are considering a purchase, I think you should be aware of the obligations and responsibilities before making a decision. Always take the time to educate yourself. It is important that you understand your pet's potential needs and wants. You know exactly what you're getting into! Reading about it and making regular visits to different riding schools and horse stables is a great start. Talk to people who come into contact with them, and get to know the animals and their owners up close and personal. Don't be afraid to ask a lot of questions, they are mostly very friendly people. It's a "club" you'll join, you'll always be offered tips when you get stuck, and you will!
There are some cute and calm animals, like humans. However, the odds are that the animal you buy already has some habits, good or bad, that you might not see when you "test" it, and you should "test it". This is the first time your horse gets off the road!
Never buy an animal that you have not seen, given, or handled (especially if it is a foal for a child). You want to avoid the animal with certain traits. "Flattening the ears back" could mean that he/she really is evil, or that he or she is in pain. The latter could mean that you will end up with huge vet bills trying to make your animal happy again.
Before you go to see your upcoming purchase, try to arrange a "horse person" to accompany you. Knowledgeable people will know what to look for, and if your riding isn't for the mark, or you lack initial confidence, they will be able to ride the animal for you.
Novice riders will need to find a calm animal and maybe a little 10 to 15 years old. A horse or pony that has been in his job for "a while". Animals at this age tend to be calmer, less "fearful" and not "frightened" in unusual circumstances. Cars in narrow lanes! Tractors! Drain covers, dogs, etc. You will soon find your horse's weaknesses as you build your relationships later.
Visit some of the local yards where people keep their horses/ponies, this will give you an idea of the rules and regulations that the landlord expects. You may be asked to sign a contract. Make sure you read it carefully before signing. Most shipyards will also require vaccination certificates and deworming details. More on this later.
It is always a good idea to know the cost of insurance for your animal. This can be a minefield, but try to go with a company that has a long history of horse/pony insurance, or else you won't get the proper coverage. You can contact, for example, the British Horse Society-American Horse Society for a complete list of insurance companies. They will also be able to give you a list of registered cutters because trust me you'll need one. For a horse/pony, feet/hoofs, if not taken care of, can be terminal!
Not all horse owners insure their animals, but in my experience, it is absolutely necessary. Vet bills can be huge, and if you're unlucky enough to own an animal that has been badly injured or infected with a virus, you're at least covered (after the increase, of course!).
You will also be covered if your animal loses or damages any vehicle or property while riding. If you don't do it for any other reason, do it for peace of mind.
It can be overwhelming to think of all the equipment needed to care for your new friend. The list can be endless.
the horse
grooming brushes
Lead heads and handles
cubes
Sponges and cleaning wipes
First aid kit
Wheelbarrow
"Fork" and shovel (type depends on bedding)
straw nets
broom
lip
Bit
saddle
tapes
saddle cloths
Cleaning equipment (soap wipes, leather oil)
These are just minimum items and will affect your finances. Don't be drawn to buying gear you know nothing about (just because it looks cool!). All equipment has a specific purpose and is designed to function in a specific way. Unless a professional tells you you need it, don't buy it. You could get yourself in more trouble if you don't heed this warning, as some equipment can be very difficult and painful in the wrong hands. You can make your animal feel offended by touching and petting it. You don't want that, do you guys? If you bought your horse and it came with a saddle, the saddle was likely made and fitted correctly when you purchased it. If you need to purchase a saddle, you will need to have it fitted by a professional. Again, be prepared, saddles can be priced in the many thousands. Over the years, many exceptional animals have been destroyed by improper saddles causing excruciating pain and discomfort, despite the animal's changing temperament. This also affects the owners. As with humans, horses will compensate when they feel pain. Once the problem is fixed, it is often very difficult to break the habits that you have formed to protect yourself. We are looking for happy horses and owners, so do your part
Well, if you're still here with me, it's time to think about bed and food. You will need to make sure you find a good supplier of bedding and feed. The landlord may insist that you buy bedding (straw, sawdust, etc.) from him directly. Ask the question before you commit to keeping your animal there, as this can be pricey at times and you may find yourself paying more than you expect.
The cheapest option would be straw, but try to buy directly from farms as they will usually offer discounts on bulk purchases (100-150 guarantees). You will need a place that is dry and large enough to stack. Most storage rooms have limited space, so arrangements are essential if this option is chosen. Hay and straw should be stored with adequate airflow to prevent dust and mold buildup.
Some animals cannot eat hay due to allergies (eg excessive dust). You will need to find the cheapest alternative option for you. There are many options out there. The following is quoted in British Pounds as evidence. Prices may vary from season to season, depending on demand and harvest. Sawdust (about £6-00 per bond - you'll need about 6 to start and about 1-2 bonds per week), soft dust extractor bedding designed for allergy-prone animals (about £8-00 per deposit) . Paper, cardboard, peat, etc. The list is very large. It should be noted here that some animals require storing hay to moisten or soak before eating due to allergies or respiratory problems.
Nutrition will depend on the individual animal, so it's quite difficult for me to give a lot of advice on this, but if you find a good resource, use their knowledge.
Most of the time, by giving an overview of how your animal is behaving, you will be able to suggest a feeding regimen. Although pre-mixed feeds are a rumor today, remember that your animal will also enjoy fresh fruits and vegetables, such as carrots and apples, as part of their balanced diet. Feeding depends a lot on whether the animals have access to pasture. This varies throughout the seasons and needs to be adjusted on-demand. Freshwater should always be available, whether it is “dumped” to pastures or “kept” in the stables. More terms!
You will also need to find a very good farrier. Note that there is also a difference between farrier and "blacksmith". Some blacksmiths are also farriers. Choose wisely. There is usually a farrier visiting the common horse barns. Monitor their work and make decisions based on local knowledge. Prices will vary, so it's a good idea to contact some before arranging a visit. You will need to see your animal every 6 to 8 weeks if you have a horseshoe on your horse/pony. Even if you are lucky enough to have an animal with very strong legs, which do not need to "jerk", you will still need to trim its legs at regular intervals, as its hooves will constantly grow. A good farrier is worth its weight in gold because he will be able to anticipate problems before they get worse and be able to advise you on your course of action.
You will also need to register your animal with a local vet. Ask at local patios. As with farriers, a good vet is essential. Your animal will need to be vaccinated annually against tetanus and equine influenza. It would also be a good idea to make sure that you are covered for tetanus through your doctor. Your horse will also need to be dewormed regularly (every 3 months), and all good gardeners will insist on this and require a guide to do so. Yards are by nature dirty places and scratches and bumps (bites and kicks!) are common, so make sure you have your first aid kit available.
This is just an overview really. Don't be fooled, this is a very expensive hobby. It can be full of traps. It can also be the most beautiful experience. Fresh air, exercise, outdoor experiences, and communication with your horse and fellow men (ladies too!). It's a club and you're usually hooked as soon as you walk in!
You really need to think long and hard before taking on such a responsibility, so make sure you have time to dedicate to it.